Omoide Yokocho: grab counter seating for charcoal Yakitori under the lanterns

Known colloquially as "Memory Lane" just northwest of Shinjuku Station, this post-WWII maze of narrow alleys houses tiny 6-seat stalls. Squeeze onto a wooden stool, order sizzling chicken thigh skewers with scallions (negima) and a cold draft beer, and enjoy the smoky Showa-era atmosphere.